Different breeds of rabbit can have quite different personalities and characteristics.
A good, reputable breeder will will know his/her bunnies and their personality characteristics and will be able to guide you and help you choose the most suitable rabbit for your requirements.
COMPARISON OF BUNNIES REARED BY DIFFERENT SOURCES:
| Commercially-bred bunnies | 'Back-garden' litters | Bunnies from a caring, reputable breeder |
| Likely price: £15-50 | Likely price: free- £15 | Likely price: £20-65+ (more for Giant breeds) |
| Bred solely for profit | Often bred by accident or for 'fun' by children in a family household. | Usually bred from quality parents as part of planned breeding programme |
| Possibly carrying defects. Are less likely to be thoroughly examined or their long-term future known. | May be carrying genetic faults which an average pet owner might have missed - or problems may show up later (eg maloccluded jaws) | Considerably less risk of defects as breeders tend to focus on breeding from their best lines |
| Breeder will probably have little, if any, involvement in the litter | Owner will probably be involved with the litter | Owner will probably spend much time observing and interacting with the litter and regularly handling and examining the babies. |
|
Babies are taken from parents to
warehouse/depot for distribution to pet stores
Within the pet store, many breeds may be mixed together to offer choice to shop customer Rabbits from different breeders might be mixed together - thus increasing risks of cross-infections From depot, rabbits are transported to stores Rabbits live in stores, often in a tiny cage/pen until bought Rabbit moves into new home and receives first handling, cuddles, fuss and attention - but there's a high probability the bunny is unsocialised and doesn't enjoy this or know how to respond. Inexperienced pet owner will probably find the bunny is not the snuggly pet they hoped for. The novelty could wear off as bunny is too timid to be handled and eventually is taken to a rescue centre. Every stage of the above scenario is potentially very stressful to the young rabbit who could experience 3-4 changes of environment and diet within less than 2 weeks. This stress can manifest itself in illness or dietary upset - and this can be fatal. If not, the bunny is unlikely to be the happiest, most-relaxed bunny.
|
Babies remain with mother until
moving to a new home.
Often they will have been regularly handled, particularly if there are children in the household and they have been involved in watching he litter grow and progress - and handled them gently. |
Babies remain with mother until
weaned then mother is usually removed from the litter to allow them to
be observed eating and drinking without suckling from her. Only
when the breeder is happy that the youngsters are a good size, weight
and are feeding well will the baby be allowed to move into his/her new
home.
|
| Sexing is not always accurate. Some pet shop staff haven't a clue how to sex a young rabbit! | Sexing is often inaccurate | Sexing is normally
accurate.
A good breeder will also show you how to sex rabbits correctly - which can be done from birth. |
| Staff will seldom advise on different breeds or try to ensure you're buying the size/breed of bunny you prefer. | Often just one litter to choose from. If you visit the owner's home having seen a 'small ad' then you might feel pressurised or obliged to adopt. | A good breeder will take
the time to help you choose a breed of rabbit who will match your
preferences and lifestyle.
Some breeders specialise in just one breed but others will have a few breeds. Most dedicated hobbyists will have no more than 3 main breeds - excluding their 'old favourites', ie their retirees and non-breeding buns. |
| Little advice can be given by shop staff re bunny's characters - as they will know little of this or the bunny's background. | Immediate ancestry will be known - although it's probable that the litter might not be the best quality. | Can advise on likely character of bunny as the line and both parents, plus previous litters and generations will be known. |
| Often cannot advise on the bunny's diet prior to being received by the store | Can advise on which feeds litter have been reared | Can advise on feed used for rearing litter plus give good dietary advice |
| Little background available | Immediate background should be available | Full background should be available - plus potentially weekly photographs showing progress and development of litter |
| 48 hour guarantee usually available | May offer longer guarantee or no guarantee at all | Most breeders usually offer 48 hour guarantee |
| Usually no after-sales service | Usually no after-sales advice. Many 'back garden' breeders do not have the necessary knowledge or experience to be able to offer information or comprehensive care advice. | After-sales advice often available throughout the bunny's entire life with contact telephone number incase of any problems or emergencies |
| Not usually vaccinated at time of sale | Not usually vaccinated at time of sale | Many breeders will vaccinate against myxomatosis and/or VHD prior to sale |
| Commercially-bred for profit | No profits made. Revenue from sales contributes towards feed bill | No profits made. Revenue from sales contributes towards feed bill and healthcare |
| Pet shops often don't know which breeds they are selling - or the size they'll be as adults! | Usually, both parents will be available for viewing. Owner may or may not know their breed. If the babies are cross-breeds, then the matings might not be between the most compatible breeds | Both parents and,
possibly, previous litters or generations will be available for
viewing.
A breeder will know for certain which breeds they have and will be able to show you the adult size of the babies. |
| SUMMARY:
Rarely a wise
purchase for an inexperienced bunny adopter as these bunnies are less
likely to be socialised and therefore will probably be harder to handle,
more challenging and following their 3-4 recent 'moves' have already
suffered some stress.
Minimal background information and little support or after-sales service, if indeed any advice at all. |
SUMMARY:
Can be good
pets if you're looking for an 'average' pet bunny and gender or quality
are not too important.
You must be prepared to do your own research into bunny care as the knowledge of the owner cannot be guaranteed to be accurate and s/he might not wish to be contacted for after-sales advice. |
SUMMARY:
Usually a
good-high quality bunny who has been socialised and lovingly
reared.
Probably the best choice for anyone looking for their first bunny and needing accurate advice before and after adopting. Also the best choice for anyone seeking a specific breed. |
In order to select the best bunny to meet your needs and preferences, please consider the following:
- Are you looking for an indoor or outdoor bunny? Different breeds have different characteristics making certain breeds more suited to indoor life as a house rabbit. French Lops are ideal house bunnies whie while Netherland Dwarf are more suited to living in hutches. Of our own bunnies, certain litters will be more suited to indoor rather than outdoor life - and vice-versa. For this reason, we will ask which you prefer and help you choose the bunny who will best match your lifestyle and preferences.
- What size bunny are you looking for? We keep several breeds from tiny Netherland Dwarfs (all have retired from breeding) weighing 2lbs right up our largest French Lop who tips the scales at a colossal 16lbs. Our Breed Sizes page will give an idea of sizes.
- If you are looking for an indoor, house-bunny - do you have any previous experience of pet rabbits? You will need to tuck electrical and telephone cables out of reach and continue litter-training an already trained bunny. If you buy an untrained bunny then you need to start from scratch.
- If you are looking for an outdoor bunny - what size hutch do you have? Do you already have a run or will you be buying/making one (always - the larger the better). A 4' x 18" hutch will be adequate for a Netherland Dwarf but most breeds require a 5' hutch (as a minimum size) with larger breeds requiring considerably more space. As a general rule, the more space you allow your bunny then the better this is. And please ensure your bunny can sit up and stretch out within his/her hutch as cramped conditions can make life very miserable and lead to muscle wastage and impaired digestive and respiratory function. In addition to their hutch, your bunnies will also need a large run for daily exercise. This is essential - not an optional extra to consider just for summer use. (Please remember, a bunny can the be same size as a small dog or cat and few people would ever consider confining either of these to a tiny cage for long periods.)
- Would you like a bunny you can take for walks on a lead? If so, a larger French Lop or French Lop-X bunny could be ideal for you. We stock leads and harnesses for our French Lops and British Giant bunnies and regularly take them for local walks (which amuses passers-by who often take a second look!). Prior to vaccination, we are careful to avoid fields which might have been frequented by wild rabbits potentially carrying myxomatosis or VHD.
- Who is the bunny for - an adult, child or a family pet? Different breeds and different litters have different temperaments and personalities and we try to take the time to ensure we match a suitable bunny to its adopter.
- Children's pets: Rabbits can make excellent pets for children but please be aware that a rabbit, like any pet animal, will require daily care and a regular routine which must be overseen by a caring and responsible adult. A child cannot be expected to accept full responsibility for any pet and could easily miss symptoms of illness. The best arrangement is that adults should also think of the bunny/bunnies as pets for themselves and their responsibility - but then encourage active involvement from your child/children. We recommend that you allow your children to help with the cleaning and feeding and actively encourage their continued interest but, if they become bored, then allow their interests to change and move on rather than try to force an interest which isn't there. Always remember that a rabbit is not a temporary or 'throw-away' pet, or a 'starter pet' for children. Rabbits are living, breathing animals deserving the utmost respect and require the same level of care, commitment and dedication as any other pet animal, large or small. Please also see our choosing a bunny page for further information regarding buying a bunny for a child.
- French Lops make ideal pets for adults who enjoy their affectionate personalities, docile natures and almost puppy-like behaviour. They can be excellent free-range bunnies but, if housed in a hutch, will need one with lots of space - 5-6' long x 36'' deep x 24'' high as a minimum. They are especially suited to being house-rabbits and we allow our French Lop house-bunny complete freedom to explore the house but confine him to the lounge, conservatory and garage overnight. If we accidentally leave doors open overnight then it's common to hear him bound up the stairs and leap into bed! Another Frenchy we bred, likes to hop into the walk-in shower every morning with his owner!
- Medium-sized and cross-breed bunnies usually make very good family pets who will spend part of the day in hutches but join the family in evenings in the home to watch TV, enjoy a cuddle and fuss from their owners. They can also become very good house-rabbits.
- Do you have young children who will not be handling the bunny too often? (Remember, young children have small hands and so will be unable to comfortably hold a larger rabbit without potentially hurting him/her). If so, a mini-lop might be the best match. Similarly, if your bunny will not have a lot of daily human contact then it can be a good idea to adopt two bunnies to live together - ideally sisters or a castrated brother and sister. Since all our bunnies are used to a lot of handling, fuss and attention, we prefer them to be adopted by homes where this will continue - our bunnies are companion pets rather than those at the opposite end of the Care Spectrum, ie the poor neglected rabbits who live lonely lives isolated at the foot of the garden, with food thrown in twice a day and are otherwise neglected. We do not wish our bunnies to go to this type of home environment.
- Pairing with Guinea-Pigs: There is no natural reason why humans should consider housing rabbits (who tend to be territorial) and guinea pigs together any more so than housing rats with gerbils or elephants with hippos! We do not recommend pairing rabbits with guinea pigs as these are very different animals with different personalities, communication methods and eat very different dietary requirements. A rabbit can trample on a guinea pig causing internal injury and many bunnies will bully a guinea-pig leading to a life of fear for a natural timid animal. A guinea pig can also give a rabbit a nasty nip which could lead to abscesses requiring surgery. Therefore, we feel it is much better to house like with like - a bonded pair of neutered rabbits or a small group of guinea-pigs - not mixing the two together.
- Grooming: All breeds will require some grooming to remove loose fluff and ensure this is not swallowed. This can lead to furballs and blockages which can lead to life-threatening gastric stasis in bunnies. Immediate vet attention is required together with, probably, a motility stimulant to help restore motility to the gut. Longer-furred breeds such as cashmere lops or Angora will require daily grooming to prevent matts forming and to keep their coat in good condition. In the case of Angoras, it is advisable to clip this down to about 1" in rabbits who are not exhibited at shows. See also grooming
- Colour: Different coloured coats can be of a very different quality. Usually black coats tend to the glossiest while albino are often the softest and silkiest. Blue coats can feel relatively coarse in comparison. Our Coat-Colours page lists some of the colours we can produce - with the possible addition of chocolate and cinnamon mini lops late in 2004.
- Are you looking to adopt just one bunny or would you prefer two?
- Adopting a pair has definite advantages. Rabbits are social animals and definitely enjoy rabbit company. It's wonderful to watch them interact together, they have a constant companion and young rabbits settle in very easily after adoption. You do, however, need to choose a pair or a partner with care. Two males together can fight (although we've kept many adult male littermates together without any fighting) while a male and female together will have unplanned litters (potentially inbreeding) and 2 females can have more false pregnancies than solitary females. We prefer to sell our bunnies in pairs where possible - the ideal pairing being a brother and sister - but the male MUST be castrated at puberty, ie 3-4/5 months of age - we will show you what to look for(!!) The second choice of a pairing would be 2 sisters but, if you are choosing just one bunny for now with the intention of adopting another later, then we'd strongly recommend buying a boy first. He could then settle in and be castrated at 3-4/5 months and then meet his girlfriend shortly afterwards. As soon as 'filled' testicles appear, then it's time to take a male along to the vet. A mature adult can still be fertile for up to a month so it's important to ensure have him castrated ASAP. Females can be spayed which involves more major surgery but, once she's had chance to recover, she can be returned to her boyfriend. See also male-vs-female
- Bunnies also like to have Toys to play with....
These are generalisations only and each rabbit will have its own personality characteristics. Please take the time to discuss your preferences and requirements with the breeder who will be able to help and guide you choose the most suitable companion rabbit.
It is also a service you would not find in (m)any pet shops or DIY stores (where the rabbits are often 'mass produced with little human contact or interaction). These rabbits are normally 'bought in', sometimes bought nationally from a single mass-breeding source, and nothing is known about their individual personalities or background - the customer takes his or her chances.....
To take a look at our companion pet rabbits available, please click the links: BUNNY SALES
Adopting Our
Bunnies:
We hope that
adopting any of our bunnies will be a
most enjoyable experience. From shortly following birth we send
photos of a litter and film the babies to ensure that no adopter needs to miss
out on your furry friend's early days. These photos continue right
through to weaning so that you can chart your bunny's progress from birth
through to weaning and collection. We strive to offer some of the best bunnies available
in terms of: The health and welfare of our bunnies is of paramount
importance and we take stringent steps to care for our furries by ensuring
We also aim to provide our bunnies with the best
accommodation we can afford. During January - July 2003 we spent over
£3000 on providing new housing for our bunnies and accommodation was
improved further during Jan-Feb 2004. They have lighting, fans, a
listening system for overnight use and security CCTV in their section of the
garden plus toys, tunnels, tubes, Ka-bobs, chew and other amusements within
their overnight hutches. We always try to ensure our bunnies never want for anything! We also strive to be ethical and responsible.
We don't over-breed our bunnies and we don't make any profits from
breeding. Any income from sales of babies makes a very small contribution
towards our bunnies' feeding and healthcare costs. We will always try to help and offer advice on caring
for any bunnies you adopt from us and, should s/he fall ill at any time, then
we will try to offer advice on this and possible treatments. However,
this is not in place of a professional veterinary opinion and veterinary
treatment. Should your circumstances change and you legitimately
find you need to rehome your bunny, then we will help if we can. We
can't guarantee we will be able to take him/her back immediately but we might
be able to find a loving home within a week or two.
We care deeply for our bunnies who are our family
pets. We take our breeding very seriously and believe ourselves to be
responsible and have the highest regard for bunny-welfare.
All
of our bunnies are thoroughbred and pedigree but we choose not to ring them
since this is both unnecessary for pets and the rings can lead to leg injury
and damage, particularly in French Lops and larger breeds - as illustrated by
this photograph of a rescued French Lop.
All our advertised rabbits for sale are surplus stock. We do not breed for specifically for sale and never for profit. We retain some girls, plus the occasional male, from most litters to meet our longer-term objectives and the rest are offered for adoption.
Please see also NEUTERING and COMPANIONSHIP pages
Always look for a well-mannered bunny....
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