BUYING A BUNNY
Adopting a pet bunny is making a lifetime commitment to your new bunny. He/she will be a member of your family for the next 5-10 years, so please choose him/her carefully.
Just as you would not buy a puppy or a kitten from a pet shop, please do not buy a pet rabbit from a pet shop but always choose a reputable rabbit breeder who knows their own bunnies well. This way you are more likely to choose healthy a healthy pet, receive adequate advice in choosing the best rabbit to suit your needs and can view the parents.
Different breeds of rabbit can have quite different personalities and characteristics.
A good, reputable breeder will will know his/her bunnies and their personality characteristics and will be able to guide you and help you choose the most suitable rabbit for your requirements.
Generally, rabbits which have been gently handled regularly from a young age make much better pets and have little fear or apprehension towards humans. All Ross Rabbits' bunnies are handled at least twice daily, tipped on their backs, rubbed, stroked, cuddled and fussed and this ensures they are notably tame and friendly when they are adopted by new owners, to whom they bring a lot of pleasure.
In contrast, rabbits which
have been bred in confined spaces or dingy sheds with little exposure to daylight,
little handling or little/no exercise outside their hutch will be much more
timid, nervous and jumpy. Such rabbits can be frightened of humans and
bite. These rabbits are not recommended as pets. Any of
our bunnies which failed to make the grade as an amiable pet (which has
never happened yet!), would not be bred.
It is always preferable to buy rabbits
privately from a reputable breeder, never from a ('typical') pet shop or
DIY store, since you can learn more about its background
in this way.
There are some good pet shops but many are more suited towards selling feed, bedding, bowls and bottles rather than pet animals.
Adopting a bunny is a responsibility - just like a cat or dog and must always be a considered decision and not an impulse purchase. A rabbit can live for 10 years and being house and 'forgotten' at the foot of the garden, confined to a small hutch, is no way for a social animal to live. These pages, and the following information, are intended to give potential bunny-adopters more insight into owning a bunny - now the third most popular pet in the UK.
Our bunnies are adopted by adults, retired pensioner and young families, but most tend to move in with owners in their 20's - 30's - where they are lavished with affection, fussed and cherished - and this is the sort of lifestyle we'd like for our pets.
Look for:-
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the overall environment the rabbits are housed in - including daylight, ventilation, exercise outside the hutch etc.
-
clean hutches and bedding
clean food bowls and water bottles - food bowls should be filled with fresh food and water bottles should be filled daily with clean, fresh water
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check the type of food the bunnies eat - ie a good quality mix/pellets
check whether litter-trays are used and regularly cleaned (a litter-trained bunny is preferable)
Check the condition of the rabbit carefully, noting the following:
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check the upper and lower front teeth are correctly aligned - maloccluded jaws can later lead to difficulties eating
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the abdomen should feel plump, 'doughy', but not bloated, droppings should be firm and well-formed, the eyes must be bright, the ears and nose clean and dry and the rabbit should appear alert, inquisitive and keen to explore the surroundings.
as the breeder approaches, watch to see if the rabbits run towards him/her, stay put, or scurry away in fear (as many bunnies in pet shops do!!) and sit nervously huddled in a corner trembling. Handle the rabbit, if you can, to see how s/he settles in your arms but please note that all rabbits may be a little jumpy in the arms of an unfamiliar stranger. Their behaviour with their breeder is much more representative of their normal character and personality - and how they will later bond with yourself. Not many rabbits enjoy being sexed and can wriggle then - but they should soon settle down when their 'bits' have been examined!!
PLEASE NOTE: many breeders (including ourselves) will be reluctant to allow you to handle a bunny if it is to be returned to the litter and its mother. This is a safeguard in the interests of the rabbit(s), potential adopters and ourselves since it is possible to transmit some infections by contact and baby rabbits have immature immune systems. Some adopters might handle rabbits at their own homes or in pet shops and then visit a breeder - thus potentially carrying infections. Therefore, please do not take offence if the breeder does not allow you to handle the rabbit. However, on the day you actually collect your bunny, you should then fully examine it to check its health and general condition. You can also be confident s/he has not previously been handled by lots of strangers but only by the breeder who will be kind and gentle towards him/her and is therefore unlikely to have negative experiences of being roughly handled.
If possible, ask to see both parents - particularly the mother. This can give a good indication of the size the baby rabbit is likely to grow to while the mother can give an idea of how its personality may develop. Offspring of nervous parents can be nervous themselves while a mother who enjoys handling is likely to produce babies which are good for handling. Also, by seeing the mother, you can judge how intensively the rabbits are bred - ie is she pregnant again before her current litter is weaned?
Buying a Bunny for a Child
If you are considering adopting a bunny for a child, please consider the following points:
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Rabbits, like any pets, need a routine and are sensitive to changes in their feeding, cleaning and exercise routines. This will need to be over-seen by a responsible adult.
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Younger children can lose interest in any pet once the initial enthusiasm wears off so, again, an adult should be aware of this and prepared to take full responsibility for the bunny's care.
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No animal should be the sole responsibility of a child. Symptoms of illness, fewer droppings or a change in behaviour which could be indicative of illness might be overlooked by a child.
The best arrangement is that adults should also think of the bunny/bunnies as pets for themselves and their responsibility - but then encourage active involvement from your child/children. Allow your children to help with the cleaning and feeding and encourage their continued interest but, if they become bored, then allow their interests to change and move on rather than try to force an interest which isn't there.
Always remember that a rabbit is not a temporary or 'throw-away' pet, or a 'starter pet' for children. Rabbits are living, breathing animals deserving the utmost respect and require the same level of care, commitment and dedication as any other pet animal, large or small.
If the rabbit is adopted to teach a child to become 'responsible' then there is a risk that, should the child lose interest and be reprimanded for this, then they make start to resent the bunny - and it will be the rabbit who suffers more than the child or parent. Also, if a situation of resentment continues and the rabbit is eventually 'given away', this can send out irresponsible messages to children - that pets are 'disposable' animals or that giving up the rabbit could be used as a 'punishment'.
However on a more positive note, rabbits make superb pets - I should know, I've had them for +30 years and am looking forward to the next 30!
They have much in their favour - they are clean, quiet, easy to litter-train, affectionate, interactive and can live indoors or out, in a large house or a small flat. They enjoy company - either rabbit company or human company (but, preferably - both!). They can be playful, go for walks on a lead and can bond very closely with their owner. Also, they generally live happily alongside other pets if they are introduced carefully and supervised.
If your child is calm, quiet, gentle and interested then a cuddly bunny could be the perfect pet for him/her. We've met some extremely caring and sensitive children who show the utmost respect for small animals and it's a delight to meet them and share their enthusiasm.
However if your child is noisy, aggressive or boisterous, then we'd recommend a stuffed toy instead!
These points are not intended to dissuade you from adopting a bunny but have been included in the interests of our bunnies and general bunny-welfare.
WHERE TO ADOPT FROM:
- A COMPARISON OF BUNNIES REARED BY DIFFERENT SOURCES:
Please click HERE to learn about adopting our bunnies
| Commercially-bred bunnies | 'Back-garden' litters | Bunnies from a caring, reputable breeder |
| Likely price: £15-50 | Likely price: free- £15 | Likely price: £20-65 |
| Bred solely for profit | Often bred by accident or for 'fun' by children in a family household. | Usually bred from quality parents as part of planned breeding programme |
| Possibly carrying defects. Are less likely to be thoroughly examined or their long-term future known. | May be carrying genetic faults which an average pet owner might have missed - or problems may show up later (eg maloccluded jaws) | Considerably less risk of defects as breeders tend to focus on breeding from their best lines |
| Breeder will probably have little, if any, involvement in the litter | Owner will probably be involved with the litter | Owner will probably spend much time observing and interacting with the litter and regularly handling and examining the babies. |
|
Babies are taken from parents to
warehouse/depot for distribution to pet stores
Within the pet store, many breeds may be mixed together to offer choice to shop customer Rabbits from different breeders might be mixed together - thus increasing risks of cross-infections From depot, rabbits are transported to stores Rabbits live in stores, often in a tiny cage/pen until bought Rabbit moves into new home and receives first handling, cuddles, fuss and attention - but there's a high probability the bunny is unsocialised and doesn't enjoy this or know how to respond. Inexperienced pet owner will probably find the bunny is not the snuggly pet they hoped for. The novelty could wear off as bunny is too timid to be handled and eventually is taken to a rescue centre. Every stage of the above scenario is potentially very stressful to the young rabbit who could experience 3-4 changes of environment and diet within less than 2 weeks. This stress can manifest itself in illness or dietary upset - and this can be fatal. If not, the bunny is unlikely to be the happiest, most-relaxed bunny.
|
Babies remain with mother until
moving to a new home.
Often they will have been regularly handled, particularly if there are children in the household and they have been involved in watching he litter grow and progress - and handled them gently. |
Babies remain with mother until
weaned then mother is usually removed from the litter to allow them to
be observed eating and drinking without suckling from her. Only
when the breeder is happy that the youngsters are a good size, weight
and are feeding well will the baby be allowed to move into his/her new
home.
|
| Sexing is not always accurate. Some pet shop staff haven't a clue how to sex a young rabbit! | Sexing is often inaccurate | Sexing is normally
accurate.
A good breeder will also show you how to sex rabbits correctly - which can be done from birth. |
| Staff will seldom advise on different breeds or try to ensure you're buying the size/breed of bunny you prefer. | Often just one litter to choose from. If you visit the owner's home having seen a 'small ad' then you might feel pressurised or obliged to adopt. | A good breeder will take
the time to help you choose a breed of rabbit who will match your
preferences and lifestyle.
Some breeders specialise in just one breed but others will have a few breeds. Most dedicated hobbyists will have no more than 3 main breeds - excluding their 'old favourites', ie their retirees and non-breeding buns. |
| Little advice can be given by shop staff re bunny's characters - as they will know little of this or the bunny's background. | Immediate ancestry will be known - although it's probable that the litter might not be the best quality. | Can advise on likely character of bunny as the line and both parents, plus previous litters and generations will be known. |
| Often cannot advise on the bunny's diet prior to being received by the store | Can advise on which feeds litter have been reared | Can advise on feed used for rearing litter plus give good dietary advice |
| Little background available | Immediate background should be available | Full background should be available - plus potentially weekly photographs showing progress and development of litter |
| 48 hour guarantee usually available | May offer longer guarantee or no guarantee at all | Most breeders usually offer 48 hour guarantee |
| Usually no after-sales service | Usually no after-sales advice. Many 'back garden' breeders simply do not have the necessary knowledge or experience to be able to offer information or comprehensive care advice. | After-sales advice often available throughout the bunny's entire life with contact telephone number incase of any problems or emergencies |
| Not usually vaccinated at time of sale | Not usually vaccinated at time of sale | Many breeders will vaccinate against myxomatosis and/or VHD prior to sale |
| Commercially-bred for profit | No profits made. Revenue from sales contributes towards feed bill | No profits made. Revenue from sales contributes towards feed bill and healthcare |
| Pet shops often don't know which breeds they are selling - or the size they'll be as adults! | Usually, both parents will be available for viewing. Owner may or may not know their breed. If the babies are cross-breeds, then the matings might not be between the most compatible breeds | Both parents and,
possibly, previous litters or generations will be available for
viewing.
A breeder will know for certain which breeds they have and will be able to show you the adult size of the babies. |
| SUMMARY:
Rarely a wise
purchase for an inexperienced bunny adopter as these bunnies are less
likely to be socialised and therefore will probably be harder to handle,
more challenging and following their 3-4 recent 'moves' have already
suffered some stress.
Minimal background information and little support or after-sales service, if indeed any advice at all. |
SUMMARY:
Can be good
pets if you're looking for an 'average' pet bunny and gender or quality
are not too important.
You must be prepared to do your own research into bunny care as the knowledge of the owner cannot be guaranteed to be accurate and s/he might not wish to be contacted for after-sales advice. |
SUMMARY:
Usually a
good-high quality bunny who has been socialised and lovingly
reared.
Probably the best choice for anyone looking for their first bunny and needing accurate advice before and after adopting. Also the best choice for anyone seeking a specific breed. |
