A BOY OR A GIRL?
Male and female rabbits each have advantages and disadvantages, although much depends upon the temperament of the individual rabbit and early 'bunnyhood' experiences.
Males tend to make much better pets, bond with their owner and can be much more affectionate. However, they can also spray urine and are more likely to become amorous with brushes, fluffy slippers and soft toys! Two adult males housed together are likely to fight, although docile litter-mates who have been together from birth can remain good friends, particularly Netherland Dwarfs. However, anyone adopting two males together (which must be litter-mates) must be prepared to have them both neutered (see neutering page) in the future or house them separately if this proves necessary.
It is advisable NOT to have any unspayed does
within 'smelling distance' if you are housing two uncastrated males together as
this can encourage spraying and sexual frustration.
Pubescent or un-mated females can
become irritable (bunny-'PMT'?!), have false pregnancies (whereby they build a nest and pluck
out their fur) and may dig a burrow in your garden. Unlike other female
animals, rabbits do not come into 'season' and females tend to be more
aggressive than males. Two or more females can happily live
together, especially if they have been spayed, and they interact well in small groups.
However, these are only generalisations and their background, breeding and personality characteristics are much more important factors when choosing your new pet(s).
When our bunnies are adopted, we show buyers how to identify the difference between males and females. If you are adopting a pair of opposite sexes then we stress the importance of having one neutered, usually the male and will show you what to look for. Once the testicles descend then this is the time to book an appointment with the vet and, remember, the male can remain fertile for up to a month following his castration so we urge to you have him 'seen to' as soon as there is anything present to remove!
Puberty can be as early as 3-4 months in a male - so please keep a close eye on his nether regions!!
Rather than keep him permanently isolated from his girlfriend, you could dress him or her (or both) in a 'nappy' which will prevent any accidental mating - but please supervise both partners to ensure they don't undress in front of each other!!!
We sex our baby rabbits shortly after birth. However, this is much easier once the rabbit reaches 3 weeks of age when the gender is much clearer and more developed. In the case of small breeds, such as Netherland Dwarfs, very occasionally a male can exhibit a 'split penis' whereby the tip appears to have a 'slit' closely resembling the slit of the female's vulval opening. In these cases, which are very rare, we cannot 100% guarantee the sex of a baby so affected. As the genitals develop, the gender will become much more obvious, especially when the testicles appear making sexing conclusive.
TWO'S COMPANY?
Female rabbits will usually live happily together providing they are introduced on neutral territory at a young age, ideally very soon after weaning. Much depends on the temperament of individual rabbits: some will become best friends within minutes while others take longer to settle down or might fight. With older does, patience may be needed as there can initially be hostility and fighting - but some bond with other females almost instantly.
Any fighting or hostility can be minimised or avoided by introducing the rabbits gradually - allowing them to see/sniff each other from their respective hutches which are moved closer together, then both meet for a cuddle together on your knee and gradually progress to meeting on new territory such as a new hutch or run. Alternatively, two (or more) female litter-mates usually remain best friends.
Adopting a pair has definite advantages. Rabbits are social animals and enjoy rabbit company. It's wonderful to watch them interact together, they have a constant companion and young rabbits settle in very easily after adoption. You do, however, need to choose a pair or a partner with care. Two males together can fight (although we've kept many adult males together without any fighting) while a male and female together will have unplanned litters (potentially inbreeding) and 2 females can have more false pregnancies than solitary females.
We always prefer to sell our bunnies in pairs - the ideal pairing being a brother and sister - but the male MUST be castrated at puberty, ie 3-4/5 months of age - we will show you what to look for(!!)
The second pairing choice would be 2 sisters but, if you are choosing just one bunny
for now with the intention of adopting another later, then we'd recommend buying
a boy first. He could then settle in and be castrated at 3-4/5 months and
then meet his girlfriend shortly afterwards. 
As soon as 'filled' testicles appear, then it's time to take your boy along to the vet.
A mature adult can still be fertile for up to a month so it's important to ensure have him castrated ASAP. Females can be spayed which involves more major surgery but, once she's had chance to recover, she can be returned to her boyfriend.
Young male rabbits usually live together in harmony. However, older males who have reached sexual maturity, and are suddenly introduced will almost inevitably fight. Such fights can be quite aggressive involving bighting which can cause serious wounds. Therefore, if you are planning to own more than one male, you need to ensure they are introduced as youngsters - preferably litter-mates, or be prepared to house them separately or, as a last resort, have them castrated. This is a very simple operation involving only a very short anaesthetic (inhalational anaesthetics are greatly preferable over injectables), often for only 3 minutes followed by a rapid recovery.
Males can make especially affectionate pets but they can also spray urine - especially if you bend to pick grass from 'their' favourite corner of the lawn, marking you, their owner, as their substitute 'mate'. A soft toy rabbit can be of benefit to an uncastrated male!
An un-neutered male and female, housed together, will reproduce ........ rapidly!
| GENDER | MALE | FEMALE |
| PROS | Can tend to be more affectionate than (some) females. | |
| CONS | Can circle your ankles in sexual
frustration and spray urine (resolved by castration).
2 males housed together will usually fight. |
Can dig up your garden and burrow in your lawn. Tendency to become 'stroppy' and bad-tempered. Can be resolved by spaying - but it's a major operation for a bunny and needs to be undertaken by a bunny-savvy vet. |
| OTHER | Males have larger heads than females (typical!!) | Females have larger bodies than males,
but smaller heads (not related to intelligence!).
Female litter-mates (or when introduced at a young age) will usually live together in harmony. |
PLEASE REMEMBER THESE ARE GENERALISATIONS AND THE PERSONALITY CHARACTERISTICS OF THE INDIVIDUAL BUNNY CAN OVER-RIDE ALL OF THESE.
Pairing Rabbits with Guinea-Pigs:
There is no natural reason why humans should consider housing rabbits (who tend to be territorial) and guinea pigs together any more so than housing rats with gerbils 'because they are small' or elephants with hippos 'because they are big'!
We do not recommend pairing rabbits with guinea pigs as these are very different animals with:-
- very different personalities - hence they are incompatible
- different communication methods - hence they do not provide companionship they each require
- very different dietary requirements - hence it is virtually impossible to provide each with their own individual nutritional requirement unless they are separated
There are behavioural reasons for not housing the two different species together:
- Rabbits tend to be territorial and many not appreciate a guinea pig shuffling around their space - which can lead to bullying and mounting is almost inevitable for the poor guinea pig.
- A rabbit can trample on a guinea pig causing internal injury and many bunnies will bully a guinea-pig leading to a life of fear for a natural timid animal.
- A guinea pig can also give a rabbit a nasty nip which could lead to abscesses requiring surgery.
They each thrive in very different environments:
- rabbits tolerate cold temperatures well - guinea pigs don't
- guinea pigs can cope with warmer temperatures - rabbits don't and are very prone to heat stroke
Therefore, we feel it is much better to house like with like - a bonded pair of neutered rabbits or a small group of guinea-pigs - never mixing the two together.
Please see also NEUTERING and COMPANIONSHIP
